JUNE 4. IÆm on the Red Train from Seoul to Busan for the South Korea-Poland game, opening night in Group D.
I was hooked into the trip by a Korean government information agency official who promised a good time on the express train with the Red Devils.
ôBe the Reds!ö is their slogan, an odd statement considering South KoreaÆs long history of fighting Communism. Despite recent efforts at rapprochement with North Korea, South Korea doesnÆt take pro-Communist statements lightly.
Just four years ago, artist Shin Hak ChulÆs painting of South Korean farmers trashing Coke cans and cigarette butts and their counterparts in the North celebrating their harvest was destroyed after the Korean Supreme Court ruled it violated the National Security Law.
The Red Devils took their name from the nickname for the Korean national team, which dates back to the 1983 World Youth Championship in Mexico, where the local press, impressed with the KoreansÆ play, dubbed them the Red Devils after the color of their uniform.
The first round of the World Cup was a wild run for the Americans. It began with a upset over Portugal in Suwon. The stalemate with Korea captivated a nation. But no one could have imagined the drama on the final night of play in Group D.
The fans on Red Train are almost all in their 20s and 30s, evenly divided between men and women. They are more cheerleaders than hard-core fans. They take a cue from their leader and practice their chants in the aisle. It lasts three hours.
PusanÆs Asiad Main Stadium is blanketed with Reds. Poland has no chance. The Koreans finally win their first World Cup game in 15 tries, 2-0, but they could have had many more goals if not for poor finishing.
Absolute torture
JUNE 5. So where were you when the USA beat Portugal?
ItÆs a question all U.S. fans will ask for some time to come.
MLS Commissioner Don Garber was at the Suwon World Cup Stadium, but he wanted to find a place to hide.
This isnÆt GarberÆs first World Cup ù he attended the Æ94 final at the Rose Bowl as a guest of a corporate sponsor ù but itÆs his first since he left the NFL to join MLS.
ôIÆve never experienced a sports event like that,ö says Garber later. ôAs a league guy, I never wanted to be associated with the [U.S. national] team, because I never wanted to care that much. That second half was absolute torture. That emotional experience is what makes the sport so great. Those who believe experience something you canÆt experience in any other sport. It makes winning that much more powerful. I was looking for a place to hide.ö
The drama of the late afternoon, the 3-0 lead, the Portuguese comeback, the own goal: ItÆs powerful.
Garber talks about bottling the drama and excitement of the day and bringing it to MLS. ItÆs his biggest challange.
JUNE 8. Everywhere we go, Korean journalists want to know what we think about the Korea-USA game.
A part of the press wants to concentrate on the security threat. WeÆre no longer talking about some Al Qaeda cell striking, weÆre talking about the equally absurd notion that the Red Devils, these gentle fans, will riot in anti-American demonstrations in case of a U.S. victory.
A radio reporter asks me for my thoughts on the game. The interview goes something like this:
ôWhat do you think of Korean security?ö
ôWe have every confidence in the Koreans security.ö
ôDo you have concern that there is anti-American feeling surrounding the Kim-Ohno incident?ö
I have to be honest.
ôMost Americans donÆt have a clue what you are talking about.ö
In the menÆs 1,500-meter short track final at the Salt Lake Winter Olympics, Korean Kim Dong Sung was disqualified ù and American Apolo Anton Ohno was awarded the gold medal. Most Koreans believe Kim was robbed and consider Ohno, a Japanese-American no less, a poor sport.
U.S. coach Bruce Arena tries to cool the political fires.
ôWasnÆt the incident snowboarding or something?ö asks the ever-laconic Arena.
The Korean government puts in motion plans for Monday. Korean President Kim Dae Jung, who attended the Korea opener in Busan, wonÆt be in Daegu. The American embassy is closed in case thereÆs trouble in the streets.
Daegu police will deploy 10,000 personnel ù double its original plans ù around the World Cup Stadium. Army troops equipped with missile launchers are deployed on Daedeok hill near the stadium. And Air Force is put on alert.
Oblivious to the fuss
JUNE 10. Seoul. City Hall. Mass gathering. June 10. The coincidence wasnÆt lost on Koreans. Fifteen years to the day, a million citizens took to the street to demand free elections. They became known as the ônecktie corps.ö
Today, itÆs the Red DevilsÆ growing army, an estimated 300,000 citizens who have braved the rain to watch the Korea-USA game in Daegu on giant screens.
They are polite and orderly. They keep their umbrellas at their side so others can watch the screens. And they pick up their trash before they head home.
The Daegu World Cup Stadium is filled with 60,000 fans, about 58,000 Koreans and 2,000 Americans. The Americans get a break with the weather, though. ItÆs cloudy with light rain.
Clint Mathis strikes early. Brad Friedel holds off Korea until Ahn Jung Hwan scores and acts out the moves of a speedskater, imitating how Koreans believe Ohno fooled the Olympic judge into believing he had been fouled.
Like Arena, Korea coach Guus Hiddink is oblivious to the significance of AhnÆs dance.
ôIs that what it was?ö he asks. ôI didnÆt know. It could have been that. It could also have been a dog cocking its leg.ö
JUNE 12. Four years ago, Steve Sampson was the U.S. coach. Now, heÆs doing color commentator in Spanish on Futbol de PrimeraÆs World Cup radio network.
Four years ago at this time, SampsonÆs team was out after two games. This time, it only needs a tie advance. It isnÆt easy for Sampson to do the U.S. games in the booth.
ôThereÆs been the whole range of emotions,ö Sampson says during an offday at the International Media Center. ôBut to be honest, IÆm so happy for the boys. I really wanted them to have a positive experience because I know for them it wasnÆt a real positive experience last time. For the future of the game in the United States, itÆs so important that the team do well.ö
Sampson has watched the United States get the breaks his team didnÆt get four years earlier.
ôEvery coach that has prepared for the World Cup or whoÆs been through qualification or participated in the World Cup will tell you have to have a little bit of luck,ö Sampson says.
Little does he know whatÆs to come.
The luck continues
JUNE 14. WeÆre at the Daejeon World Cup Stadium, but we might as well be in Warsaw. The stadium walls are covered with Poland banners from one end to the other.
ôGdansk Polska,ö ôTychy on Tour,ö ôLegia.ö Many ôLegiaö banners. The Koreans in the stands are all rooting for Poland ù a Polish win all but assures Korea of going through ù and they have lots to cheer about.
The Americans go two goals down after five minutes. And the game gets worse from there. Poland coasts to a 3-1 victory.
Attention turns to the South Korea-Portugal game in Incheon. The AmericansÆ only chance is a South Korea victory. Neither team needs to win, and they play like it in the first half: three shots, none on goal.
But the Portuguese, who need only a tie, self-destruct. First, Joao Pinto is sent off, then Beto. Against nine players, South Korea finally scores in the 70th minute. At 9:56 p.m., the United States was through to the second round.
Huge cheers in the stands signal that Korea has gone ahead. The U.S. players are informed of whatÆs happening in Incheon. They donÆt know about the last five minutes and Sergio ConceicaoÆs shot off of the post or his point-blank shot that is saved by Lee Woon Jae.
Korea finishes first, the USA is second, and Portugal is going home, joining France and Argentina as World Cup favorites sent packing.
ôThe Polish fans are cheering,ö Landon Donovan says. ôThe Koreans fans are cheering. The Americans are cheering. It sure was different.ö
Everyone at Daejeon goes home happy.
by Soccer America Managing Editor Paul Kennedy in Seoul